The plain between Dali's ancient town and the shore of Erhai Lake is flat, densely farmed and criss-crossed by lanes, and it is the best cycling country in Yunnan for anyone who wants distance without climbing. On one side are the Cangshan mountains, rising to over four thousand metres; on the other the lake, some forty kilometres long. Between them are Bai villages, market towns, temple gates, irrigation channels and fields of rice, garlic, tobacco and vegetables, and the roads connecting them carry very little traffic.
Routes and distances
The classic ride is from Dali ancient town north to Xizhou, a distance of around twenty kilometres, on lanes that pass through villages and farmland and can be completed in two hours at an easy pace with stops. A longer version continues north towards Shaxi and the mountains, or follows the lakeside road; the full circuit of Erhai Lake is roughly one hundred and thirty kilometres and needs a full day and some fitness, since the northern and eastern shores are hilly. South of Dali the rides are shorter and lead towards Xiaguan, the modern city at the southern end of the lake.
Where to hire and what to expect
Bicycles are hired from shops and guesthouses in Dali ancient town and in the villages along the lake, in ordinary city-bike, mountain-bike and occasionally electric-assisted versions. Rates are per day and low, and a deposit or an identity document is usually required. Shared bikes are also available, though the schemes are designed for short trips within a town rather than for a day in the countryside. The roads are level and mostly paved; the main highway carries fast traffic and is best avoided in favour of the parallel back lanes.
Practical notes
Dali sits at about two thousand metres, so allow for the altitude on the first days and take it slowly on any climb. The sun is strong at this elevation even when the air is cool, so cover up and take water; afternoon winds pick up on the open lakeside stretches. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and the summer rains fall mostly in the afternoon. Village lanes are narrow and used by farm vehicles and scooters, so ride defensively, and keep an eye out for the drainage channels that run alongside many of the fields.
