The Naxi are the dominant ethnic group of the Lijiang valley, with their own script, music and religion, and a cuisine shaped by a high valley climate and a location on the old tea-horse trade route. Ingredients come from the mountains around the town, from the fertile plain, and from the traffic in dried goods that passed through for centuries.
What to order
Lijiang baba is a flatbread, either savory with ham and scallion or sweet, cooked on a griddle. Ribs and potatoes simmered in a clay pot is a filling local staple. Naxi grilled fish comes from the rivers and reservoirs of the plain and is usually served with herbs and chili. Fermented soybean, known locally as douchi, is used as a seasoning base in many dishes. Cured pork belly is hung and smoked, then sliced and stir-fried with vegetables. Wild mushrooms appear in enormous variety from about June to September.
Where to eat
The ancient town's main streets are lined with restaurants facing the canals, and they are pleasant but tourist-priced. Better value is found in the lanes away from the water and in the newer part of town beyond the old town boundary, where family restaurants serve the same dishes at local prices. Baisha village, a short drive north, has small kitchens serving Naxi food in a quieter setting.
Practical notes
Sichuan pepper and chili are used but usually gently; ask for bu la if you want it mild. Portions are large and sharing is normal. Mushroom season is a highlight but only buy and eat mushrooms from established restaurants, not from street vendors, since some local species are toxic if mishandled. Water in the old town comes from the mountain streams; restaurants using it for cooking are proud of it and will tell you.
