Erhai is a large freshwater lake at 1,972 meters, about forty kilometers long, with the Cangshan mountains rising steeply immediately to its west. The Bai villages around the shore have been fishing and farming here for centuries, and the lakeside road links them in a loop that has become one of China's most popular cycling routes.
The route
The full circuit is roughly 130 kilometers and takes a fit cyclist a long day; most visitors ride a section, commonly the eastern shore road, which is quieter and has the best views back toward the mountains. The western shore is more developed, with the towns of Dali and Xizhou close to the water. Electric scooters and cars are also easy to rent, and the well-maintained ring road makes driving straightforward.
Along the way
Xizhou is the highlight for most visitors: a Bai town of courtyard houses, a weekly market, and a strong tradition of tie-dye and batik textiles. Shuanglang on the northeast shore is a former fishing village turned cafe strip, with wooden guesthouses over the water. Small harbors along the eastern shore still have working fishing boats, and in winter thousands of migratory birds gather on the lake.
Practical notes
The best seasons are spring, when the canola fields on the plain turn yellow, and autumn, when the air is clearest and the mountain views are sharpest. Summer is the rainy season. Sun is strong at this altitude even when the air is cool, so cover up and use sunscreen. Cycling the full loop needs an early start and a decent level of fitness; the eastern shore has more hills than it looks.
