The Bai people have farmed the Erhai Lake basin for over a thousand years, and their cooking reflects a mild climate with abundant water and vegetables. It is not the chili-heavy food of southern Yunnan. The flavors are sour, fresh and lightly fermented, with a strong tradition of cured pork, pickles and freshwater fish.
The signature dishes
Erhai fish is the local speciality, usually cooked in a sour broth with papaya, tomato and lime, or steamed with ginger and scallion. Rushan is a stretched goat cheese made by the Bai, grilled on a skewer or fried until crisp and served with a dipping sauce, somewhere between halloumi and a cheese crisp. Xuanwei ham, a cured Yunnan ham, appears in soups and stir-fries. Look also for cold rice noodles with a sour and spicy dressing, and for wild vegetable dishes in spring.
Where to eat
Dali's old town has plenty of restaurants aimed at visitors, with prices to match. The village of Xizhou, north of the lake, is better for authentic Bai cooking in courtyard houses, and the Sunday market there is one of the best in the region. Shaxi, further north on the old tea-horse road, has simple local kitchens serving the same repertoire.
Practical notes
Erhai fish should be eaten fresh; the local preference is for fish from the lake, and tourists should be aware that stocks are under pressure, so ask what is being served. Vegetarians can eat very well on rushan, fried vegetables, wild herbs and rice noodles. The cuisine is mild by Yunnan standards, so it suits anyone who finds Sichuan food too hot. Dining in courtyards in the old towns is pleasant in the evening but cool in winter, so bring a layer.
