The Ili valley, in the far west of Xinjiang against the Kazakh border, is grassland country: broad river valleys, rolling hills and high summer pastures below the Tianshan. It is also the horse country of China, and the Ili horse is a recognised breed, bred here for centuries and prized for its stamina, hardiness and comfortable gait.
The horses
Ili horses are compact, strong and sure-footed, well suited to long days in mountain pasture. They are used for herding, for transport and for racing, and they appear at the region's festivals in large numbers. The related breeds of the northern grasslands, including the small, extremely hardy Mongolian horses, are also common further east, and the herds you see on the road are usually a mix of the local types rather than a single formal breed.
Kazakh horsemanship
The Kazakh herders of the Ili and Tekes valleys live by their animals - horses, sheep, cattle and camels - and their skills on horseback are part of daily work rather than display. Boys and girls learn to ride as small children. The traditional sports of the region include kokpar, a rough team game played on horseback with a sheep's carcass, and horse racing, and the annual horse festivals at Zhaosu and on the Nalati grassland draw competitors from across the region. The spectacle of young riders, in traditional dress, galloping flat out across open ground is the highlight of any summer visit.
Grassland stays and riding
In summer, Kazakh families move up to the high pastures with their herds and set up yurts, and some take in overnight guests. A stay typically includes simple food - mutton, noodles, milk tea, yoghurt and bread - and the chance to ride with the herders or on your own with a guide. Riding is usually charged by the hour, and horses are calm, well used to visitors and responsive to rein and voice. Basic instruction is available, but these are working horses, not trekking ponies, and beginners should start slowly.
Practical notes
The Nalati and Kalajun grasslands, near Xinyuan and Tekes, are reached by road from Yining, the main town of the Ili region, which has its own airport. The grassland season runs from roughly May to September, when the herds are up; outside that the valleys are cold and the yurts mostly empty. Bring warm layers even in midsummer, since nights at altitude are cold. When visiting families, ask before photographing people or entering a yurt, and accept hospitality when it is offered - refusing food or tea outright is considered rude.
