Urumqi sits on the northern slope of the Tianshan, and the mountains come down into the city on the eastern side at Shuimogou, the water-mill valley. It is a wooded gorge with a river running through it, shaded by old elms and poplars, with a Taoist temple on the ridge, pavilions, footpaths and, most importantly for local people, springs. The warm water rises along the valley floor, and the city has built a cluster of bath houses, spa hotels and public pools around it, which makes Shuimogou the traditional place for Urumqi residents to take the waters.
What to do there
The park itself is free and used for walking, picnics and photographs, with a paved path following the stream up the valley and a hilltop temple reached by a long flight of steps. Around it are the bathing establishments, ranging from plain public pools to large resort complexes with outdoor soaking pools, saunas, massage and restaurants. The local habit is an afternoon or a whole day: soak, eat, sit, soak again. In winter the outdoor pools steam in the cold air and the valley is often under snow, which is when the contrast is most enjoyable.
The city's other green space
Shuimogou is the largest of Urumqi's parks but not the only one. The city has planted extensively along the rivers and on the hillsides, and the parks are heavily used in summer, when the heat in the basin is dry and intense and the tree cover is the only comfortable place to be. Weekends bring families with picnic equipment, music and tea, and the atmosphere is closer to a Chinese city park than to a wilderness.
Practical notes
Shuimogou is within the city and reachable by bus and taxi, and the park is open all day with no charge; the bathing complexes charge by the session and vary widely in standard, so inspect before committing or book through your hotel. Bring your own swimwear and a towel, and expect separate male and female areas. Urumqi is at about eight hundred metres, so there is no altitude issue here. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for walking, and winter is the best time for the hot springs.
