Urumqi Grand Bazaar: Markets, Spices and Snacks


Urumqi is one of the most inland cities on earth, the furthest city from any ocean, and it has been a trading town since the Silk Road caravans crossed the Tianshan passes. The bazaar is a modern reconstruction of that tradition rather than an original site, but the trade in it is real: the vendors are largely Uyghur and Kazakh, and the goods come from across the region.

What is sold
The bazaar is organized by category. One section sells dried fruit, and the quality is remarkable: raisins in a dozen colors and sizes, dried apricots, figs, mulberries, jujubes and melon strips. Another sells nuts, including walnuts, almonds and the small, very fragrant local apricot kernels. Spices, dried chilies, cumin and saffron are sold by weight. Elsewhere you find silk and atlas fabric, felt hats, embroidered caps, carpets, knives and musical instruments. Prices are negotiable, and bargaining is expected.

The food court
Behind the main arcade there is a covered area of food stalls serving the cooking of the region: lamb skewers grilled over charcoal, hand-pulled laghman noodles, samsa pastries baked in a tandoor, pilaf with carrots and raisins, and yogurt drinks. This is the easiest place in Urumqi to eat widely in one sitting.

Practical notes
The bazaar is in the center of Urumqi, near the Erdaoqiao area, and is easy to reach by taxi or metro. It is busiest in the late afternoon and evening. Cash is now rare; phone payment and cards are accepted by most vendors, though some small stalls prefer cash. Buy dried fruit loose rather than pre-packaged for better quality, and check your country's import rules for plant products before carrying food home.