Xi'an has a large student population, and the streets that serve the university campuses have developed a food economy of their own. It is cheaper than the tourist quarters, more varied than the single-cuisine streets in the old city, and it runs late, because students eat after evening classes and after the library closes. For a visitor it is a way to eat well for very little and to see a part of the city that is not organised around sightseeing.
What is on offer
Shaanxi staples dominate: hand-pulled noodles served dry with chilli oil or in a bowl of broth, cold noodles with wheat gluten and beansprouts, flatbreads filled with braised meat or with egg and vegetables, dumplings boiled or pan-fried, and lamb or beef skewers cooked over charcoal. Because the customers are students from all over the country, the mix widens: Sichuan hotpot by the stick, Northeast-style grills, Xinjiang rice and roast buns, Hunan stir-fries, and a large amount of bubble tea, fruit tea and shaved ice. Most stalls sell one thing and do it well, and the portions are sized for someone who is about to go back to a dormitory.
How to eat there
Order at the stall, pay by phone, and eat standing or at the shared plastic tables and stools that line the pavement. Prices are low enough that you can try several stalls rather than committing to one: start with a cold dish, then a bowl of noodles, then skewers, then something sweet. Hygiene varies, and the safest approach is to watch what is busy - a stall with a queue is turning its stock over quickly, which is the single best signal available.
Practical notes
The liveliest hours are between six and ten in the evening, and the area is at its busiest during term time rather than during the summer and winter holidays, when the campuses empty and many stalls close. Bring small cash as a backup and photograph the stall signs for translation. Vegetarians can eat well here - noodles, vegetables, tofu and breads are everywhere - but should check whether the broth is meat-based, which it usually is. Combine the area with a walk through the old city, which is a short taxi ride away.
