Shaanxi is a wheat province, not a rice province, and its cooking is built on noodles, breads and vinegar in a way that surprises visitors who expect rice everywhere in China. Biangbiang mian are the loudest expression of that: dough is slapped against the counter, stretched by hand and dropped into boiling water as a single long ribbon.
The noodle
One noodle can be two meters long and several centimeters wide. The texture is the point: springy, slightly chewy and thick enough to hold a heavy sauce. You will usually be given a bowl with one or two noodles and told to cut them yourself with scissors or your chopsticks.
The dressing
The basic version is youpo mian: chili flakes, minced garlic, scallion and sometimes a few greens piled on the noodles, then smoking-hot oil poured over so it sizzles and blooms the chili. Vinegar and soy are added at the table. Variations add tomato and egg, braised pork, or mixed vegetables. The oil pour is the moment to photograph, and everyone at the table will be doing the same.
The character
The name is written with a character so complex that dictionaries disagree on it, and it is not in most standard fonts. Locals tell a rhyme to remember how to write it, involving a horse, a river and a moon. Ask your guide to write it out; it is a good five-minute story.
Practical notes
Biangbiang mian are everywhere in Xi'an, from the Muslim Quarter to the food streets near the Bell Tower, and they are inexpensive. Order one bowl between two people if you are also eating other things. Vegetarian versions exist and are common; ask for the meat to be left out. The dish is heavy on chili but the heat is usually moderate rather than extreme.
