Shanghai still runs a network of public ferries across the Huangpu River. They exist for commuters and for people moving bicycles and scooters between the two banks, not for tourists, which is exactly why they are worth taking: the crossing costs about the same as a bus ride, takes five to ten minutes, and gives you the river, the skyline and the working port all at once.
The crossing
Several routes operate between the Puxi side, on the old city bank, and the Pudong side. The most useful for a visitor is the run between the Jinling East Road landing, a few minutes south of the Bund, and Dongchang Road on the Pudong side, which puts you within walking distance of the Lujiazui towers. Other routes connect the southern and northern reaches of the river. Boats run frequently through the day, from early morning until around ten at night, with a reduced overnight service on some routes.
What you see
The ferries are flat-bottomed, open-sided and unglamorous, with a lower deck for bicycles and scooters and an upper deck for passengers. Standing at the rail as the boat pulls out gives you the Bund facades behind you and the Lujiazui skyline ahead, and in between a stretch of working river with barges, tugs and the occasional container ship. It is a genuinely different view from the tourist cruise boats, closer to the water and much less staged.
Practical notes
Tickets are bought at the landing, either from a window or a machine, and cost a few yuan. You will need the exact fare or a mobile payment app; the machines generally do not accept foreign cards. Crossings take five to ten minutes and boats leave every few minutes at peak times, less often in the evening. The upper deck is open to the weather, so bring a jacket in winter and expect it to be crowded at rush hour with commuters, scooters and delivery riders.
Putting it together
A good half day is to walk the Bund, take the ferry across to Dongchang Road, walk the riverside promenade in Pudong and go up one of the towers, then return by metro under the river or by ferry again. If you want the view at night, take the ferry shortly after sunset when both banks are lit and the commuter rush is over.
