Xiaolongbao arrived in Shanghai from Nanxiang, a town in the Jiading district northwest of the city, where a shopkeeper is credited with developing the modern form in the nineteenth century. The Shanghai version is smaller and more delicate than most, with a paper-thin skin and a filling of minced pork set in gelatin that melts into soup when steamed.
What makes a good one
Skin: the dough should be rolled so thin that you can see the filling through it, and pleated with eighteen folds or more at the top. Soup: a good bun holds a full spoonful of broth. Filling: pork with crab roe and crab meat is the premium version and is worth trying in autumn. The basket should arrive hot and unstuck, not torn.
How to eat them
Use the spoon. Lift the bun with chopsticks by its pleated top, place it in the spoon, and bite a small hole in the side to let the steam out. Sip the broth first, then eat the rest with a dip of black vinegar and slivered ginger. Eating a whole bun in one bite will scald your mouth; the broth is over ninety degrees inside.
Where to order
The famous baskets are sold at the bazaar beside Yu Garden, where the queue is long and part of the experience. Beyond that, Shanghai has dumpling houses all over the city, from old neighborhood shops with plastic stools to high-end restaurants serving crab roe versions. The neighborhood places are cheaper and often just as good; look for a shop with a steamer stack visible through the window.
Practical notes
Six to eight buns per basket is standard, and two baskets make a light meal. Vegetarian versions exist but are less common, so ask in advance. Soup dumplings are not gluten-free. The vinegar and ginger are served on the side and are meant to be used, not skipped.
