Shanghai has traded in old Chinese objects since the nineteenth century, and the trade still exists, though not where it used to. The open-air stalls that once lined Dongtai Road were cleared in 2015, and what remains has consolidated into a handful of permanent market buildings, mostly around the old town and the lanes east of the Bund.
Cangbaolou
Cangbaolou, on Fangbang West Road near the old town, is a multi-storey building of a few hundred small stalls. The range is huge and the quality wildly inconsistent: porcelain, jade, bronze, wooden carvings, Buddhist figures, old watches, cameras, propaganda prints, snuff bottles, silver and furniture. This is the more visitor-friendly of the two, with lower prices and more willingness to bargain, but it is also where you are most likely to be sold a recent object presented as old. Go with curiosity rather than ambition.
Yunzhou
The Yunzhou antique market, a short distance to the southwest, is aimed at dealers and collectors. Stalls are fewer, pieces are better and prices are higher, and several of the sellers are specialists in one category such as ceramics, jade or calligraphy. There is less sales pressure and more willingness to discuss an object honestly. If you are looking for something genuine - a piece of Republican-period silver, a carved seal, an old Chinese map - this is where to start.
Buying sensibly
Assume that anything inexpensive is new or restored. Genuine antiques exist, but they are usually in the locked cabinets and are priced accordingly. Ask about provenance and be wary of a confident story with no paperwork. Remember also that China restricts the export of genuine cultural relics: articles of real historical value generally require an export permit, and airport customs do check. Modern reproductions, craft objects and twentieth-century everyday items have no such restriction, and are usually the sensible purchase for a visitor.
Getting there
Both markets are within walking distance of Yuyuan Garden and the old town, served by Line 10 at Yuyuan Garden station or Line 8 and 10 at Laoximen. They open daily from mid-morning to early evening. Bargaining is expected at Cangbaolou and unwelcome at Yunzhou. Allow two hours to look properly, and bring a magnifying glass if you are serious - some dealers will lend you one.
