The Huangpu divides Shanghai in two. On the west bank is Puxi, where the old city and the foreign concessions grew up, with the Bund's row of banks and trading houses built between 1900 and 1930. On the east is Pudong, which was farmland and warehouses until 1990 and now holds the Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Tower, the Shanghai World Financial Center and Shanghai Tower.
What you see
From the water the contrast is the whole point: on one side, a continuous wall of neoclassical and Art Deco stone facades; on the other, a cluster of glass towers at very different heights. The boats usually run a loop of forty-five to sixty minutes, passing the Bund frontage, turning near the Yangpu or Nanpu bridge, and coming back past Lujiazui.
The Bund on foot
Before or after the cruise, walk the Bund promenade. It is elevated above the road and runs about 1.5 kilometers, ending near the Waibaidu Bridge. The buildings face west, so the promenade is in shade in the late afternoon, which makes evening the better time. The lights on the Puxi side are usually switched off earlier than the Pudong towers, so plan to see the Bund facade before 10 p.m.
Practical notes
Cruises depart from several piers on the Bund and from the Pudong side. The upper deck is open and the wind is strong, so a jacket matters even in summer. Sightseeing tunnels under the river and ferry crossings are cheaper alternatives if you just want to get across, but the cruise gives the view. Book in the afternoon for a same-evening departure on weekends.
Timing
Arrive about forty minutes before sunset. You get the river in daylight, the sunset, and then the full lighting on both banks in a single sail.
