Yuantong Temple stands in the north of central Kunming, at the foot of Yuantong Hill and close to Green Lake Park. It is the largest and oldest Buddhist temple in the city, with foundations going back more than twelve centuries, and it has been rebuilt and enlarged many times since.
An unusual layout
Most Chinese temples climb a slope, with halls rising in sequence towards the main sanctuary. Yuantong does the opposite in part: the entrance is at the top, and the visitor descends through courtyards and terraces to an octagonal hall that sits on an island in the middle of a large pond. The pond is crossed by bridges, planted with lotus in summer, and full of carp and turtles, and the effect is more like a garden than a temple. The arrangement is deliberately unusual and is one of the things that distinguishes Yuantong from the standard plan.
The halls
The main halls hold large gilded figures of the Buddha and bodhisattvas, along with guardian figures and a hall dedicated to Guanyin with a thousand arms and eyes. There is also a substantial Tibetan Buddhist presence in one of the halls, with a shrine in the Tibetan manner and images of the tantric pantheon, reflecting Yunnan's position between the Chinese and Tibetan Buddhist worlds. Old stone inscriptions, bronze vessels and a large bell are among the other things to look out for, and the rock carvings on the hillside behind the temple are worth the short climb.
Around the temple
The temple is an active place of worship, busy in the early mornings with local residents burning incense and making offerings, and busier still on the first and fifteenth days of the lunar month and at festival times. The surrounding area, in particular the streets between the temple and Green Lake Park, is one of the more pleasant parts of central Kunming, with old trees, teahouses, snack shops and a lively morning scene.
Practical notes
Yuantong Temple is within walking distance of Green Lake Park and the city centre, and is served by several bus routes. There is a small entrance fee. Allow about an hour, more if you climb the hill behind the temple for the view. Dress modestly, keep voices down in the halls and do not photograph people at prayer. The market streets around the temple are a good place for a cheap Yunnan breakfast.
