Weishan sits in a basin south of Dali, at the edge of the mountains, and it is one of the best-preserved small walled towns in Yunnan. It matters historically because it was the homeland of the Yi clans whose leader founded Nanzhao, the kingdom that in the eighth and ninth centuries controlled much of what is now Yunnan and fought the Tang empire to a standstill. The town itself, with its gates, grid of streets and old houses, is Ming and Qing, built after the earlier centre was abandoned.
The town
Weishan keeps its city gate and a length of wall, and inside there is a proper street grid with a raised tower building at the crossing of the main roads, old shop-houses with timber fronts, temples, guild halls and wells. It is a living town rather than an attraction: people sell vegetables and do business in the streets, and there are almost no foreign visitors and only moderate numbers of domestic ones, which is increasingly rare in Yunnan. The food is a reason to come in itself - the region has its own style of noodles, cured meats and pickles, and there are small restaurants along the main street that have been there for generations.
Weibao Mountain
Rising behind the town is Weibao Mountain, one of the historic centres of Taoism in Yunnan, with a series of temples and hermitages strung up the slopes among old trees. The buildings are of various dates, many recently restored, and include halls dedicated to the mountain's Taoist patriarchs, a temple marking the legendary origins of the Nanzhao line, and small shrines in the forest. Walks of two to four hours can be made between them, and on festival days pilgrims fill the paths. The mountain is also a nature reserve, with camellias and other flowering trees in spring.
Practical notes
Weishan is about two hours from Dali by road and is reachable by bus from Dali and from the nearest rail station, though the connections take time; a car is much easier, and it allows the mountain to be included. There are small guesthouses in the town and simple restaurants, and the mountain charges a modest admission. One full day is enough to see the old town and walk part of the mountain, and two days is better. Bring cash for the smaller restaurants, and expect very little English anywhere.
