Tengchong lies in the far west of Yunnan, close to the border with Myanmar, on a volcanic field that is still classified as active. The landscape is unusual for the province: cones and craters rise out of farmland, lava flows have been cut by rivers, and hot springs, fumaroles and boiling mud pools emerge across the area.
The volcanoes
The volcanic field includes a number of well-formed cones, several of which can be climbed in an hour or two. The craters are mostly forested and filled with vegetation, and some hold small lakes. Between the cones there are basalt flows, lava terraces and hot spring areas, and the local stone - a dark, porous basalt - is used in the walls and paving of the villages. A cable car serves one of the main craters, and the walking trails between the cones are pleasant and not demanding.
The hot springs
Tengchong's hot springs are the other half of the story, and they are not all for bathing: some are boiling, with steam vents and bubbling mud, and are visited as natural curiosities. Others have been developed into spa resorts and public baths, using the geothermal water for pools. The most famous site has a boiling pool at the head of a stream, where the water is hot enough to cook eggs, a trick the vendors nearby are happy to demonstrate.
Heshun
Heshun, a few kilometres from the town of Tengchong, is a merchant village that grew rich on trade across the border and on the emigration of its men to Myanmar. The result is a compact settlement of fine courtyard houses, ancestral halls, libraries, temples and stone lanes built on a hillside above a river. Many of the houses combine Chinese courtyard planning with Southeast Asian and European decorative detail brought back by returning traders, and the village library, founded in the 1920s, is a small local institution. Heshun is quiet, well preserved and much less visited than Yunnan's famous old towns.
Practical notes
Tengchong has an airport with flights from Kunming and is also reached by road, a long drive from Dali or Baoshan. The volcanic area and Heshun are close to the town and easily combined in a day or two. The climate is mild and wet, with a rainy season from June to September. Because the area is close to the border, carry your passport, and note that some nearby border zones require permits.
