Puzhehei lies in Qiubei county in southeastern Yunnan, about four hours by road from Kunming. It is a karst landscape: hundreds of small, steep limestone hills rising abruptly out of a network of shallow lakes, marshes, channels and farmland. The local name refers to a pond of fish and shrimp, and the area has long been inhabited by Yi and Miao communities who farm the flat ground between the hills.
The scenery
What makes Puzhehei distinctive is the density of the hills and the amount of water. The peaks are small - typically a hundred to three hundred metres high - and they stand close together, so the view is a maze of green cones reflected in still water. In July and August the lakes fill with lotus, both wild and cultivated, and the flowering period turns the whole basin into a field of pink and white. The hills are covered in shrubs and grass, with caves in some of them, and the water is shallow enough to be warm in summer.
Boats and water
The standard way to see the area is by small boat, poled or rowed by a local boatman through the channels between the hills. Trips last from one to three hours and pass villages, lotus beds, fishing nets and reed beds. There are also cave systems in the hills, some with boat access, and a number of viewpoints on the higher peaks reached by short, steep climbs. Swimming is possible in some of the lakes in summer, though the locals do it more than the visitors.
Villages and culture
The villages around the lakes are mainly Yi and Miao, and traditional dress and language are still in everyday use. Agriculture is a mix of rice, lotus, vegetables and fruit, and the villages are known for their embroidered cloth, dyed textiles and silverwork. Because the area is not on the main tourist circuit, the villages are working settlements rather than staged attractions, though that has begun to change as the area has become better known.
Practical notes
Puzhehei is reached by road from Kunming or by train to Qiubei followed by a short drive. The best season is summer for the lotus, though the landscape is attractive year round and quieter in spring and autumn. There is an entrance fee for the scenic area and separate charges for boats and caves. Allow two days to see it without rushing. Midges are present near the water in summer, so bring repellent.
