Meili Snow Mountain rises in the far northwest of Yunnan, in Deqin county, close to the Tibetan border. The range includes Kawagebo, at about 6,740 metres the highest peak entirely within Yunnan and, more significantly, the highest unclimbed mountain in China. A joint Chinese-Japanese expedition was caught in an avalanche here in 1991 and all seventeen climbers were killed; since then local pressure and religious feeling have kept the peak closed to climbing.
Why it is sacred
Kawagebo is one of the most important holy mountains in the Tibetan Buddhist world, the earthly home of a protective deity, and pilgrims circumambulate the range in a long kora that takes about ten days on foot, outside the main visitor areas. The mountain is treated with real reverence, and travellers are expected to respect that: no climbing, no littering, no loud behaviour at viewpoints, and no photographs of pilgrims at prayer without asking.
The sunrise
The best-known viewpoint is Feilai Temple, a small monastery village on the road above the valley with a direct line of sight to the range. On a clear morning shortly after dawn, the snow on the summit is lit first by light that has not yet reached the valley, turning the peak gold while everything else remains in shadow. This is what people come for, and many visitors stay two or three nights because the mountain is often hidden in cloud - a clear sunrise is not guaranteed and depends on luck.
Practical information
Deqin is reached by road from Shangri-La, four to five hours, or from Lijiang over a long mountain route; there is also an airport at Shangri-La with connections from Kunming. Most visitors stay in Feilai Temple or the nearby town of Deqin, where there are hotels of a reasonable standard including some with views. The temple and the viewpoints charge small fees. Winter gives the clearest views but the road can close with snow; spring and autumn are the most reliable seasons.
Altitude and health
Deqin is around 3,300 metres and the mountain views are taken at over 3,400 metres, having just come over a pass above 4,000 metres. Take the ascent slowly, drink water, avoid alcohol for the first night, and treat headaches with rest rather than pushing on. Bring serious cold-weather clothing whatever the season - the mornings are below freezing for much of the year.
