Jinghong, the capital of Xishuangbanna, is a Dai city on the Mekong, and its architecture is closer to northern Thailand and Laos than to the rest of China. Manting Park, a short walk from the centre, was the garden and parkland of the Dai chieftains who ruled the region, and the temple beside it is the most important Theravada Buddhist temple in the country.
The park
Manting is laid out around a lake with mature trees, palms, bamboo and flower beds, and it is where local people walk in the evenings. Its most photographed element is a white stupa with a square base and a tall, tapering spire, modelled on the stupas of Chiang Mai. There are pavilions on the water, a small zoo area, and Dai-style stilted buildings used for performances. In the evening the park hosts a well-known cultural show with Dai, Aini and other minority dances, plus a buffet of local food.
The temple
The Zongfo Temple adjoining the park is the seat of Dai Buddhism in China, and it is worth taking time over. The buildings are Theravada in style: wide, low halls with layered roofs, gold ornament, naga serpents on the stair railings and elaborate gable decorations. Monks live and study here, and young novices in saffron robes are a common sight. Visitors are welcome, but dress must cover shoulders and knees, shoes come off before entering halls, and women should not touch monks or hand them objects directly. Photography inside the halls is generally not permitted.
Practical information
Jinghong is reached by air from Kunming in about an hour or by high-speed rail, and the park and temple are within walking distance of the central hotels. The park charges admission; the temple is free but donations are customary. The best time to visit the temple is early morning or late afternoon, when the light is warm and the heat is bearable. Allow an hour for the temple and another hour and a half for the park.
A cultural note
Dai Buddhism is part of everyday life here, and the temples are working religious sites. Keep voices low, do not point feet towards images or people, and ask before photographing anyone - especially monks and novices.
