Lugu Lake lies at about 2,690 metres on the border between Yunnan and Sichuan, roughly 200 kilometres northeast of Lijiang. It is a deep, clear lake surrounded by mountains, with a few islands and a shoreline of small villages, and it is the homeland of the Mosuo, a people closely related to the Naxi who live in extended matrilineal households.
The Mosuo
Among the Mosuo, property, family name and household authority pass through the female line, and the eldest woman of a household manages its affairs. Traditional relationships are arranged differently from the Han norm, with partners continuing to live in their own family homes rather than forming a new household. These customs have attracted a great deal of outside attention and, unfortunately, a certain amount of distortion - the communities have been marketed in ways they did not choose, and much of what you read outside China is inaccurate or sensational. Treat the Mosuo as people going about their lives, not as an attraction.
The lake and the boats
The classic activity is a trip on the lake in a wooden boat rowed by a Mosuo woman, usually to one of the islands, with the water so clear that you can see several metres down. Sunrise over the lake from the Yunnan shore, with the mountains behind, is the image everyone comes for. Walks and bicycle rides along the shoreline visit the villages, and the Lige peninsula and the villages on the Sichuan side are the busiest.
Practical information
Access is by road from Lijiang, a drive of five to seven hours over mountain roads, which makes an overnight stay essential; there is no railway. The pass at the Yunnan entrance is around 3,000 metres and the altitude is noticeable. Guesthouses and hotels in the villages range from simple family rooms to comfortable courtyard hotels. Vans and buses run from Lijiang, and many visitors combine the lake with a return to Lijiang or a continuation into Sichuan.
Best season and etiquette
Spring and autumn give the clearest skies; winter is cold but very quiet. Ask before photographing people, do not enter houses or courtyards uninvited, and be careful about repeating the romanticised stories that circulate about Mosuo customs - the residents are used to being misrepresented and generally prefer straightforward, respectful interest.
