Jizu Mountain stands in Binchuan county, east of Erhai Lake and roughly two hours from Dali, rising to a summit at about three thousand two hundred metres. It is one of the four great Buddhist mountains of China in the traditional reckoning, associated with Maitreya, the future Buddha, and it has been a pilgrimage destination for more than a thousand years. At its height the mountain carried more than a hundred monasteries, temples and hermitages spread across its slopes; a substantial number survive or have been rebuilt.
The ascent
The pilgrimage route climbs from the lower slopes through a series of temple compounds, each with its own halls, courtyards and accommodation, passing bamboo groves, old pines, cliff shrines and viewing points. The upper section is steep, and the final climb to the Golden Summit temple is by a long stone staircase - there is also a cable car and a road for those who prefer not to walk it. At the summit stands a temple and a viewing platform from which, on a clear morning, Erhai Lake is visible to the west and the Cangshan range beyond it, with the plateau to the north.
The temples
The principal buildings include the Zhusheng Temple at the base, a large complex with an impressive gate and a reputed relic, and the Huashou Gate and the summit temple above. Between them are numerous smaller monasteries, many of them rebuilt in recent decades with donations from pilgrims, and several cave shrines where monks have lived in retreat. The mountain remains an active pilgrimage site, and the calendar includes festivals at the New Year and on the Buddha's birthday, when the route is dense with worshippers and the temples hold ceremonies.
Practical notes
Jizu is usually visited as an overnight trip from Dali or from Binchuan town, since the mountain is large and the ascent takes most of a day. Accommodation is available in and around the temples, including simple guest rooms in the monastery complexes, which is the traditional way to do the mountain. There is no permit requirement beyond the site's own admission, and the cable car shortens the climb considerably. Take warm and waterproof clothing - the summit is exposed and cold - and allow a full morning for the climb at a comfortable pace, since the altitude is enough to slow you down.
