Jiuxiang lies in Yiliang county about ninety kilometres east of Kunming, in the limestone country of eastern Yunnan, and it is one of the largest cave systems open to visitors in the province. The karst here has been dissolved by water over a long period into a network of chambers, gorges and underground passages, and the site is arranged as a walk: a descent through the gorge, a section of cave with lighting, and a boat trip on an underground river at the end. The place is busy with domestic tour groups and almost unknown to foreign visitors.
The walk through
The route starts at the top of a gorge and descends by a combination of paths and steps cut into the rock, following a stream that runs between the cliff walls before disappearing into the cave. Inside, the chambers are lit artificially to pick out the stalactites, stalagmites, columns and flowstone, some of them very large. The highlight is a pair of waterfalls inside the cavern - the local name translates as the male and female falls - where two streams drop into the same pool from different heights, filling the chamber with noise and spray. The final section is by boat, drifting out along the underground river to the exit.
Combining it with the Stone Forest
Jiuxiang sits in the same direction as the Stone Forest, which is Yunnan's most famous karst landscape and lies about half an hour away. The two are commonly done in a single day from Kunming, and they are genuinely different experiences: the Stone Forest is an above-ground field of limestone pinnacles, Jiuxiang is the same rock dissolved from inside. The other nearby attraction is the Alu ancient cave further south, which is smaller and much less visited.
Practical notes
There is no convenient public transport; a car and driver or a booked day trip from Kunming is the practical option, taking one and a half to two hours each way. The site charges admission plus separate fees for the boat and the cable car or lift that returns you to the entrance. The path involves a great many steps, is wet and slippery in places, and is not suitable for anyone with limited mobility; comfortable shoes are essential. Bring a light jacket, since the caves are cold and damp.
