Haba Snow Mountain rises to 5,396 metres in northwestern Yunnan, on the far side of the Yangtze from the better-known Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The two peaks face each other across Tiger Leaping Gorge, and Haba is the taller of the pair, though it gets a fraction of the attention.
The mountain
Haba is a glaciated peak with permanent snow and ice on its upper slopes, rising out of deep forest. Below the summit the mountain passes through several vegetation zones: broadleaf forest and terraced fields in the valley, then conifer forest, then rhododendron and alpine scrub, then bare rock, scree and glacier. Because the Yangtze gorge cuts deeply between Haba and Jade Dragon, the mountain rises in an almost unbroken sweep from river level to summit, producing one of the greatest vertical reliefs of any peak in the region.
Trekking and climbing
Haba is a known objective for Chinese mountaineers and is often described as an accessible first snow mountain, but accessible is relative: the standard route involves a long walk in, a night at a high base camp, an alpine start on snow and glacier, and a summit day of eight to twelve hours. It requires proper equipment, a registered guide, and reasonable fitness and acclimatisation. Below the technical ground, lower trails through the forest and up to the meadows around the base camp are open to ordinary walkers and are rewarding in themselves, with views across the gorge to Jade Dragon.
The villages below
The valleys on the Haba side are home to Naxi, Yi, Lisu and Tibetan communities, and the villages have a mix of styles, with Tibetan-style houses appearing as you gain altitude. Haba village itself, at around 2,600 metres, is the usual base and the starting point for the climb, with guesthouses and hiring of horses and guides. The area produces walnuts, peppers and medicinal plants, and the lower slopes are farmed in terraces.
Practical notes
Haba is reached from Lijiang via the Tiger Leaping Gorge road, roughly three to four hours, or from Shangri-La. The best seasons are spring and autumn; summer is the rainy season and winter brings heavy snow. Altitude and weather are the main hazards, and the mountain has a record of accidents involving underprepared climbers, so do not attempt the summit without a guide, insurance that covers mountaineering, and proper acclimatisation. Lower-level walking needs no special equipment beyond good boots and rain gear.
