Dongzhulin Monastery stands on the Diqing plateau in the far north-west of Yunnan, in the Deqin valley below the Baima Snow Mountain pass, at an elevation of around three thousand metres. It is one of the largest and most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the province, founded in the seventeenth century and belonging to the Gelug order, and it serves the Tibetan communities of the Diqing prefecture. Rebuilt after damage in the twentieth century, it remains a working institution with a resident community of monks.
What is inside
The monastery is known for its collection of religious art, and in particular for a large thangka, embroidered or appliquéd rather than painted, that is displayed on major festival days and is said to date from the eighteenth century. The assembly hall holds images of Tsongkhapa and the Gelug lineage, along with silver and gilt sculpture, butter lamps, drums, long trumpets and the great prayer flags used for the monastery's dances. As at most Tibetan monasteries, the halls are arranged with the main assembly space at the centre and chapels and protector rooms around it, and the decoration is dense and vivid.
The festival calendar
The monastery's most important event is a masked cham dance performed by the monks at the end of the Tibetan year, usually in the winter, when the courtyard fills with villagers in festival dress and the surrounding communities arrive for several days of prayers, markets and dancing. The masked dance enacts the expulsion of evil and is one of the best opportunities in Yunnan to see Tibetan religious performance in its own setting rather than staged for visitors. Dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and shift each year, so the timing has to be confirmed locally.
Practical notes
Deqin is reached from Shangri-La by road over the Baima pass, a drive of several hours, and the monastery lies on the road about halfway between Shangri-La and Deqin town, so it is usually visited en route; a car and driver are the practical arrangement. The plateau weather is severe and changes quickly, with snow possible from October, so take warm and waterproof clothing. Visitors should respect the monastery's rules on photography, which vary by hall and by ceremony, and dress modestly. The best months are from April to October, and the winter festival period, though cold and subject to road closures, is the most rewarding time to be here.
