The Dongchuan Red Land lies in the hills around Huashitou and Damakan, north of Kunming in Yunnan's northeastern corner. It is not a natural wonder in the usual sense but a farming landscape: terraced fields on soil rich in iron and aluminium oxides, which turns a deep brick red when it is bare and dry.
Why it looks the way it does
The soil here is highly weathered, acidic and poor in nutrients, and the farmers who work it rotate crops in narrow strips across contoured terraces. At different times of year the fields carry potatoes, buckwheat, rapeseed, wheat, barley and vegetables, and the plots are planted in irregular patches. Add the white plastic sheeting used for some crops, and the result is a patchwork of red, green, white and yellow that changes constantly through the growing season. It is the combination of vivid soil colour, small fields and high relief that makes the landscape so photogenic.
When to go
Two windows are traditionally best. In spring, from roughly April to early May, the bare red soil is at its most vivid and the young crops are a bright green. In autumn, from September to November, the crops ripen and the fields turn gold, white and red. Midsummer is greener and less striking, and the winter fields are largely bare, which some photographers prefer for the pure colour of the soil. Light matters more than season: early morning and late afternoon, with low sun and cloud shadows, are when the landscape works best.
Where to look
Several recognised viewpoints sit along the road that runs through the area, each looking over a different arrangement of terraces and hills, and farmers have planted stands of trees and crops specifically to frame them. The most visited points are near Huashitou, Damakan and Luoxiagou. The area is also dotted with small villages, and the contrasting colours of houses, drying crops and livestock against the red soil are as much part of the picture as the fields themselves.
Practical notes
The Red Land is about three hours by road from Kunming and is usually visited as an overnight trip, since the good light comes early and late. Accommodation is in small guesthouses in the villages, which are basic but adequate. There is no entrance fee for the landscape, though some viewpoints charge a small amount. Bring warm clothing - the altitude is around 2,000 metres and the mornings are cold - and be prepared for a lot of standing around waiting for the light.
