Baisha lies about ten kilometres north of Lijiang, at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and it was the seat of the Naxi chiefs before the settlement shifted to the Lijiang of today. What survives is a quiet village with a few important buildings rather than a restored old town: a courtyard temple complex whose halls hold the murals that make Baisha famous, and a street of small houses around it. Because it is only a short ride from Lijiang and has far less commercial development, it is the most pleasant way to see the Naxi world.
The murals
The paintings date from the Ming dynasty and are remarkable for their syncretism. A single composition will place Tibetan Buddhist deities alongside Taoist immortals and Chinese Buddhist figures, painted with techniques drawn from all three traditions - fine line, mineral pigment and gilding - under the patronage of Naxi chiefs who were happy to honour every available source of religious authority at once. The largest and best preserved are in the Dabaoji Palace hall, with others in the neighbouring halls and in temples elsewhere in the Lijiang area. The pigments have darkened and some panels are damaged, which is why display conditions are controlled and photography is restricted.
The village
Baisha itself is a working village with a main street, a well-known set of traditional doctors' clinics, small restaurants and a slow pace. The surrounding fields run up to the mountain, and the Naxi houses - timber framed, with mud or stone walls and heavy tiled roofs - are the same type as in Lijiang's old town but without the crowds and the reconstruction. Bicycles from Lijiang make the ride out easy, and the road continues on to Yuhu village and the foothills below the glacier.
Practical notes
Baisha is a short taxi or bicycle ride from Lijiang's old town, or a stop on the local bus route; the temple complex charges admission and the murals are inside it. Photography of the murals is not permitted, so buy the printed reproductions if you want a record. The village is small - two to three hours is enough - and combines well with Yuhu village and the Baisha frescoes' larger cousins in Lijiang itself. Mornings are quietest, and the light on the mountain behind is best before the afternoon cloud builds.
