The Ili valley is the greenest part of Xinjiang, an enclosed basin of rivers and mountains that catches enough moisture to support orchards, farmland and high pasture. At its eastern end, where the valley climbs towards the Tianshan proper, the land opens into the Nalati grassland: broad, gently rolling meadows at around two thousand metres, with dark conifer forest on the ridges above and snow on the peaks behind. It is one of the classic landscapes of the region.
The herds and the herders
The grassland is used the way it always was. Families bring sheep, cattle, goats and horses up into the high pastures for the summer, living in felt yurts and moving the animals between grazing grounds, then take them down to the valley or the desert margins for the winter. In the summer months the meadows are dotted with yurt camps, smoke from the stoves, herds moving along the tracks, and riders working the animals. Horses are bred and trained here, and riding is not a tourists' activity but a working skill; horse games and competitions are held at festivals.
Visiting
The scenic area is organised with shuttle buses along a loop of viewpoints, boardwalks through the meadow and the forest, and opportunities to ride, visit a yurt or eat in the camps. It is busy in July and August, when domestic tourists come for the cool air, and the scenery is at its best then, with wildflowers in the meadow and the snow still on the high ridges. Spring brings green-up, autumn brings the herds down and the larch colour, and winter closes much of the access.
Practical notes
Nalati is reached by road from Yining or from Urumqi, roughly four to five hours from either, and the nearest town is Xinyuan; there is also an airport in the valley. Altitude is moderate - around two thousand metres - so there is no serious acclimatisation issue, but the weather changes fast and cold rain or snow is possible even in midsummer. Bring warm layers and rain gear, and expect accommodation in the area to be simple yurt camps and guesthouses, booked well ahead in July and August.
