The Kumutage desert lies in the eastern part of the Turpan basin, and it runs right up to the edge of Shanshan county town, so that the last streets and the first dunes are a few hundred metres apart. That proximity is unusual: most large deserts are reached by a long drive, whereas here you can walk out of a town and into sand. The desert itself is part of the Taklamakan system, formed of fine sand carried by wind from the basin floor, and it extends south-east for a great distance.
The dunes and the singing sand
The dunes rise to well over a hundred metres in places, in long ridges with sharp crests and smooth lee faces, and their colour changes through the day from pale yellow to deep orange. The local name refers to the sound the sand makes - a low booming or humming when a large quantity of it moves at once, either in a slide or in a strong wind. The effect is real but not guaranteed, and it is loudest in dry weather when the grains are loose; it is a well-documented phenomenon in a handful of dune fields worldwide and is caused by the friction of the grains as they shear past one another.
Visiting
The desert is entered from the Shanshan side, where there is a purpose-built access area with a car park, a shuttle, boardwalks and the option of sandboarding, camel rides and dune buggies. Beyond the first few hundred metres, however, most visitors stop and the sand is empty, and it is easy to walk out along a ridge and be alone, with the town visible behind you and nothing but dunes ahead. The best times are early morning and the last two hours before sunset, when the sand is not too hot and the shadows across the ridges are at their strongest.
Practical notes
Shanshan is on the railway and road between Turpan and Hami, about two hours from Turpan by car, and the desert access is on the edge of the town, so it needs no special expedition. Carry far more water than you think necessary, cover your head and neck, and use sun protection on your eyes as well as your skin - the glare is severe. Sand gets into cameras, phones and shoes, so seal what you can. Do not attempt to walk far off the access area without a local guide, and go in spring or autumn rather than in the full heat of summer, when daytime temperatures in the basin are punishing.
