Sayram Lake sits in Bortala prefecture in the far northwest of Xinjiang, close to the Kazakhstan border, at about 2,070 metres. It is the highest and largest alpine lake in the region, fed by snowmelt from the surrounding ranges, and its water is unusually clear and cold. The lake lies on the old northern Silk Road route, and it is now a stop on the highway that runs west towards the Ili valley.
The lake and the shore
The shoreline is grassland and gravel, with swaths of wild flowers in late spring and herds of sheep and horses in summer. The lake is roughly thirty kilometres long and twenty wide, and it takes a couple of hours to drive around the shore road, which has several marked viewpoints and picnic areas. Because it is high and enclosed by mountains, the water shifts colour constantly - grey under cloud, deep blue in sun, turquoise near the shallows - and the surrounding peaks hold snow into June.
Guozigou
The road west of the lake descends through the Guozigou valley, a gorge with steep rocky walls, a river at the bottom and a famous double bridge built on tall piers to carry the highway across the ravine. It is one of the most photographed stretches of road in China, especially in autumn when the valley sides turn colour. The descent from the lake to the Ili valley takes about an hour and the scenery changes completely, from cold alpine grassland to orchard country.
Practical information
Sayram is reached by road from Urumqi, around six hours, or from Yining, about two hours, and it is normally visited as a stop between the two rather than as a destination on its own. There are basic guesthouses and yurt camps near the shore and better hotels in the nearby towns. The lake area charges admission and there is a shuttle service in high season; the roads around the lake are used by cyclists in summer, so drive carefully.
Timing
June to September is the comfortable season, with wild flowers in May and June and warm days in July and August; nights are cold at this altitude all year. The lake freezes in winter and the area becomes quiet and very cold. Bring sun protection - the reflection off the water and the thin air at 2,000 metres make sunburn easy.
