Xi'an Ancient City Wall: Yongningmen and the Lantern Festival


The wall you walk on today was built by the Ming between 1370 and 1378 on the foundations of the Tang imperial city, and it has been repaired repeatedly since, most extensively in the 1980s. It runs 13.7 kilometers around the old city, is twelve meters high at the parapet, and is wide enough at the top for two-way bicycle traffic.

Yongningmen
The south gate is the largest of the four surviving gates, with a triple gatehouse arrangement of barbican, archery tower and main gate that shows how Chinese city defenses worked in layers. A ceremony with drums and guards is staged here for visitors in the peak season, and the gate complex is lit at night, making it the most photogenic point on the wall.

Cycling the wall
Renting a bicycle on top of the wall and riding the full circuit takes about an hour and a half at a relaxed pace. The route passes all four gates and looks down into the old city on one side and the modern skyline on the other. The brick surface is uneven in places, with steps at some towers, and the wind on the open west side can be strong.

The lantern festival
From around the Lunar New Year through to early spring, the wall hosts a lantern festival with large illuminated figures and scenes set along the ramparts between the south and north gates. It is one of the biggest in China and is a genuinely spectacular evening walk. Dates shift each year with the lunar calendar.

Practical notes
Tickets are available at each gate, and a separate fee applies for bicycles. Go in the late afternoon for daylight and sunset, or after dark for the lighting. The wall is exposed with almost no shade, so in summer plan for early morning or evening and carry water.