The mosque was first established in 742, in the Tang dynasty, and has been rebuilt and expanded through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing. It is one of the oldest and largest mosques in China, and it is a working place of worship rather than a museum, with a congregation that still prays here five times a day.
Chinese form, Islamic function
There is no dome and no tall minaret. Instead, four successive courtyards lead east to west, each entered through a carved wooden archway, with pavilions, stone steles and gardens between them. The prayer hall at the western end faces Mecca, and its interior combines carved timber, painted beams and Arabic calligraphy set into Chinese-style panels. The minaret is a modest wooden pavilion that would be easy to mistake for a garden structure.
What to look for
The stone gateway and the wooden archways carry carved calligraphy in both Arabic and Chinese. The wall of steles records the mosque's history and repairs. In the main hall, the mihrab and the carved ceiling show how decorative traditions from two cultures were made to sit together without either one dominating.
Visiting notes
Entry is off Huajue Lane, a narrow alley running north from the West Street of the Muslim Quarter; there is an admission fee and a modest dress code. Women are asked to cover shoulders and knees, and headscarves are available at the entrance. Non-Muslims are generally welcome outside prayer times, but the prayer hall may be closed to visitors on Fridays. Allow about forty-five minutes, and combine it with the food street on the way out.
