Tibetan cooking is shaped by altitude. There is very little arable land, so the staples are barley, dairy and meat from yak and sheep, and vegetables that grow in the valleys. The flavours are simple and the cooking is designed to keep you warm: stews, fried meat, bread, butter and salt.
What to order
Yak steak is the dish most visitors want to try - a thick cut of yak beef, usually grilled or pan-fried and served with a peppery sauce or simply salted. It tastes leaner and slightly stronger than lowland beef. Shapta is thinly sliced meat stir-fried with peppers, onion and chili, and it is the everyday dish you will see most often. Tingmo are soft, white steamed buns, usually served with meat or a vegetable stew to mop up the sauce. Balep is the flatbread, sometimes fried, sometimes baked in ash. Gyathuk is a noodle soup with meat and greens, and shamdre is mashed potato mixed with butter and roasted barley flour.
Dairy and preserves
Yogurt is a Tibetan speciality, thick, sour and often served with sugar. Dried yak cheese - chura - is sold in chunks and is extremely hard; you soften it in tea or suck it slowly. Yartsa and other dried mountain products are sold in the markets but should only be bought from reputable shops, and be aware that customs rules at home apply. Dried yak meat is sold everywhere and travels well.
Where to eat in Lhasa
The old town has family-run kitchens - several along the lanes off the Barkhor and along Dekyi Shar Lam - with printed menus in English and Tibetan, yak steak, momos, thukpa and hot tea. Many have a balcony or terrace, which is worth asking for. A full meal for two with tea usually comes in under 200 yuan, and portions are large.
Practical notes
Altitude affects appetite and digestion, so eat lightly on your first day or two and go easy on alcohol. Yak meat is served rare in some places - ask for it well done if you prefer. Vegetarian options exist but are limited; the best choices are vegetable momos, stir-fried greens, potato dishes and noodles, with butter tea or sweet tea to fill in the gaps.
