Tibetan cooking is shaped by what grows on the plateau: barley, root vegetables, dairy and meat from yak and sheep, with very little in the way of vegetables beyond what can be grown in the sheltered valleys. The result is a cuisine of soups, dumplings, dried meat and dairy, and it is exactly what you want after a cold day at altitude.
Momos
Momos are dumplings with a thick, hand-pleated wheat wrapper, filled with minced beef or yak, sometimes with onion and ginger, and increasingly with vegetables in the towns. They are usually steamed, though a fried version exists. They come in a bamboo steamer or on a plate, with a small bowl of chili sauce. A portion is enough for one person as a snack and two as a light meal.
Thukpa
Thukpa is a noodle soup. The broth is made from simmered bones and sometimes has a distinct richness from yak meat. Hand-pulled or dried noodles go in with sliced meat, radish, greens and sometimes potato. Variations include thenthuk with torn flat noodle pieces and gyathuk with thinner noodles. At altitude a bowl of thukpa does more for you than almost anything else on the menu.
Other things to try
Look for dre-si, a sweet rice dish with raisins and butter eaten at festivals, and for yak yogurt, which is dense and tart. Dried yak meat is sold everywhere and is a useful snack on long drives. In Lhasa's Muslim quarter you will also find great influence from Hui cooking, including hand-pulled noodles and grilled skewers.
Practical notes
Momos and thukpa are widely available in Lhasa, Shigatse and most towns, from plain local restaurants to places accustomed to foreign visitors. Vegetarian versions exist but are less common outside Lhasa, so ask specifically. Prices are low. Avoid heavy meals on your first day at altitude and give yourself time to adjust.
