The Changtang is the high, dry grassland of northern Tibet, and its most important gathering of the year is the horse racing festival held near Nagqu in high summer, usually in late July or August. It began as a horse fair and a meeting of the pastoral communities of the plateau, and it still works that way: herders and traders travel for days with their families, set up white and black tents in their thousands across the grassland, and stay for the better part of a week.
What happens
Racing is the centrepiece, and it is not a flat track event. Horses are ridden over open grassland, and alongside the straight races there are displays of trick riding - picking up scarves from the ground at a gallop, shooting bows from horseback, standing on the saddle. Alongside the racing there is archery, traditional wrestling, tug of war, and a good deal of costume: the herders of the Changtang wear heavy sheepskin robes and elaborate jewellery of turquoise, coral, silver and amber, and the display of that jewellery is half the point of attending. Evenings bring singing, circle dancing and a great deal of drinking.
The market
A large temporary market grows alongside the arena, selling livestock and horses, hides and wool, butter and cheese, prayer flags, household goods, clothing, jewellery and food stalls. It is a real trading event for the plateau rather than a staged show, and the bargaining is conducted in Tibetan across a wide area of dialects. For a visitor it is the single best place to see the material culture of the Changtang assembled in one field.
Practical notes
Nagqu is at about 4,500 metres, which is high enough that altitude illness is a genuine risk; arriving from Lhasa without acclimatisation is unwise. Foreign visitors need a Tibet Travel Permit and an additional permit for travel outside Lhasa, both arranged through a licensed agency, and the festival itself must be built into an approved itinerary. Accommodation is tented and basic. The festival dates follow the Tibetan calendar and shift from year to year, so confirm with your agency before committing. Bring sun protection, warm layers and a face covering for the wind.
