The Potala Palace sits on the Red Hill on the west side of the Lhasa valley, thirteen storeys of white and dark red walls rising above the city. It is visible from a surprising amount of the old town, and finding the right place to look at it - with a cup of tea, and at the right hour - is one of the small pleasures of a Lhasa day.
Chakpori
Directly southwest of the Potala, the small hill known as Chakpori - the Iron Hill - holds the classic viewpoint. There is a small platform at the top and a rock with a carved relief, and from there the palace fills the frame with the White Palace and Red Palace clearly separated. Go in the middle of the afternoon or at sunset, when the light comes from the west and the walls turn warm. The walk up takes a few minutes and there is usually a small charge.
Rooftop cafes and terraces
Several cafes and restaurants in the old town have roofs or upper terraces with a view north-west towards the Potala, and they are a comfortable way to spend an hour. They serve sweet tea, coffee, momos and simple meals, and the best seats are always the ones on the roof rather than inside. Ask at the counter whether the roof is open - a lot of them keep it closed outside the warmer months, since Lhasa is at 3,650 metres and the wind on a roof is cold even in summer.
The Potala from the south
The palace also reads well from the south side of the city, seen across the valley with the mountains behind it, and from the road that skirts the base of the hill. Early morning, when the sun hits the Red Palace first and the rest of the hill is still in shadow, is the most dramatic time; mid-afternoon gives the flattest and clearest light for photographs.
Practical notes
Altitude is the limiting factor on any Lhasa rooftop - take it slowly for your first two days and drink water rather than alcohol. Evenings cool quickly, so bring a jacket. Photography of the Potala from public viewpoints is unrestricted; photography inside the palace, and of pilgrims during prayer, is not permitted. If you are planning to visit the Potala itself, note that tickets are limited, timed and must be booked through your agency several days ahead.
