Yamdrok Lake lies about a hundred kilometres southwest of Lhasa, on the road that leads to Gyantse and Shigatse. It is one of the three great sacred lakes of Tibet, and its shape - long, branched and deeply indented - means it is best seen from above, which is exactly how the road presents it.
Gampa La
The approach climbs to the Gampa La pass at about 5,045 metres, where the road crests the ridge and the lake appears below in one piece: a sheet of deep blue-green water among brown and grey mountains, with the snow-covered Nojin Kangtsang peak behind it. Almost every vehicle stops here, and the pass has a viewing platform, prayer flags and a row of stalls selling souvenirs and drinks. Even in summer it is cold and windy, so a jacket is essential.
Down at the lake
The road descends to the lakeshore at the small settlement of Nagartse, where there is a village, a fort ruin and a monastery on a promontory, and where farmers graze sheep and yaks on the lakeside pasture. The lake is a source of fish and of irrigation water, and it drains through a channel to the Brahmaputra; the level has been affected by hydroelectric use, which is visible in places as an exposed shoreline.
How to visit
Yamdrok is usually seen on the way from Lhasa to Shigatse or Gyantse, which takes a full day of driving. It is possible as a long day trip from Lhasa with a vehicle and guide, but it makes more sense as a stop on a longer route. Foreign visitors need the Tibet Travel Permit plus the permit for areas outside Lhasa, and a licensed guide must accompany the group.
Practical notes
The pass is high enough to cause headaches even for people who have acclimatised in Lhasa, so keep the stop short, avoid running and drink water. Bring cash for the stallholders, and treat the animals and offerings with respect - photographers are sometimes asked for money for pictures of people or of decorated animals, and that is normal here.
