Ramoche Temple stands in the northern part of Lhasa's old town, a short walk from the Jokhang. It was founded in the seventh century, in the same period as the Jokhang, and the two are traditionally described as sister temples, built to house two sacred images that arrived in Tibet as part of the marriage alliances of the first great Buddhist king.
The image
Ramoche is best known for the Jowo Mikyoe, a gilt statue of the Buddha in his twelve-year-old form, which tradition says was brought from China by the Tang princess Wencheng. Its larger counterpart, the Jowo Shakyamuni, was brought from Nepal by another princess, and both were intended for the Jokhang. At some point, for reasons of safety and politics, the images were exchanged, and the smaller Chinese image was moved to Ramoche, where it remains. It is one of the most revered objects in Tibetan Buddhism, and pilgrims come specifically to see it.
The temple
The complex is smaller and quieter than the Jokhang, arranged around a dark entrance hall and a main chapel, with a courtyard and a colonnade. The architecture mixes Tibetan and Chinese elements, and the lower sections of the older walls retain their original stonework. The upper floors hold further chapels and a small collection of objects, and there is a rooftop area with views over the surrounding rooftops of the old quarter. The lanes around the temple are among the least changed in central Lhasa and make for an interesting short walk.
Visiting well
Ramoche receives a steady stream of Tibetan pilgrims and relatively few foreign visitors, which is part of its appeal; you will often be the only non-Tibetan in the courtyard. Photography inside the chapels is generally not permitted and this is enforced, so ask before raising a camera. Walk clockwise around the temple and around the inner chapels, and be prepared to remove hats inside the halls. The temple is at its most active in the early morning, when it fills with people offering butter and incense.
Practical notes
Ramoche is in the old town, within walking distance of the Jokhang and Barkhor Street and convenient for most hotels in central Lhasa. A small entrance fee applies. Because the site is compact, allow forty-five minutes, and combine it with the Jokhang and the Barkhor on the same morning. The temple is closed to visitors on certain festival days when it is reserved for religious observance.
