Namtso - Nam Co, the heavenly lake - lies about 240 kilometres north of Lhasa, on the far side of the Nyenchen Tanglha range. At roughly 4,718 metres above sea level it is one of the highest saltwater lakes in the world, and its colour, deep turquoise against brown and white mountains, is the reason it is on so many itineraries.
The lake and its shore
The lake is around 1,900 square kilometres in area and freezes hard in winter. On the southern shore the Tashi Dor peninsula extends into the water, with low rocky hills, boulders carved with prayer inscriptions, small caves used by hermits, and piles of prayer flags and mani stones left by pilgrims. Walking around the peninsula takes an hour or two at altitude, and the views across the water to the snow peaks of Nyenchen Tanglha change with every hundred metres.
Pilgrims and seasons
Namtso is a sacred lake, and in the Tibetan year of the sheep - which comes around every twelve years - pilgrims walk the entire circuit, which takes weeks. In ordinary years people come to circumambulate the peninsula and to leave offerings. The lake is accessible from roughly April or May to October; in winter snow can close the pass and the shore is brutally cold and often deserted.
Practical information
The drive from Lhasa takes four to five hours each way over the Lakenla pass at about 5,190 metres, so the usual pattern is a long day trip or an overnight nearby. Accommodation at the lakeshore is basic and rules about camping and overnight stays have changed in recent years, so confirm the current arrangements with your agency before planning to sleep there. Foreign visitors need the standard Tibet Travel Permit plus an additional permit for the area outside Lhasa, arranged in advance.
Altitude warning
Namtso sits more than a thousand metres higher than Lhasa, and altitude sickness at this height is common even for people who felt fine in the city. Ascend slowly, drink water, do not run, and be ready to turn back if someone in your party develops a bad headache, vomiting or breathlessness at rest. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should discuss the trip with a doctor first.
