The north side of Everest, known in Tibetan as Qomolangma, is reached from Tibet over the Friendship Highway and then a branch road south from Tingri. The base camp sits at about 5,200 meters on the gravel plain below the north face, with the Rongbuk Glacier and the mountain rising directly ahead. The Tibetan approach gives a clear, unobstructed view of the north face that the Nepalese side does not.
The drive
From Lhasa the journey is normally two to three days, stopping at Shigatse and often at Sakya or Lhatse. The road crosses the Gyatso La, a pass at about 5,200 meters, where the Himalayan range comes into view all at once, including Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and Cho Oyu on a clear day. This viewpoint is often the highlight of the whole trip.
At the camp
The visitor area has a tented settlement in season, a post office that is one of the highest in the world, and the Rongbuk Monastery a few kilometers below, which is the highest monastery in Tibet. The temperature at night drops well below freezing even in summer, and oxygen levels are about half those at sea level. A short walk away from the tents gives you the north face on your own and the silence is complete.
Practical notes
Permits are required, and access arrangements change; sometimes visitors are required to stay at a lower camp and travel up by shuttle. Acclimatization is essential, and a night at Shigatse or higher before the final push makes a real difference. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should consult a doctor first. Bring serious cold-weather clothing, sun protection, and a headlamp. The best months are April, May, September and October, when the sky is clearest.
