Lulang lies in the Nyingchi prefecture in the east of Tibet, on the road between Bayi and the deep gorge of the Yarlung Tsangpo, at an elevation of about three thousand three hundred metres. The eastern end of the plateau is much wetter than the centre, because the Indian monsoon pushes moisture up the great river gorge, and the result at Lulang is dense forest of spruce and fir, open alpine meadows, and snow-covered peaks behind them - a landscape quite unlike the dry, high plains around Lhasa, five hours away by road.
The forest and the meadows
The forest is dominated by tall spruce and fir, with rhododendron in the understorey, and it is interspersed with clearings where Tibetan and Monpa families graze yaks and horses. A viewing area with wooden walkways and platforms looks out over the canopy towards Namcha Barwa, the great peak at the eastern end of the Himalaya, and towards the Gyala Peri massif. Because the valley receives heavy rainfall, the trees carry moss and lichen, and the light changes constantly as cloud moves through - the vegetation and the weather together are what make it feel unlike anywhere else in Tibet.
What to do there
Lulang is a place for walking and riding rather than for monuments. There are trails through the forest and across the meadows, horse hire from local families, and jeep excursions further up the valley towards the gorge. The village itself, Lulang town, is a small settlement on the highway with guesthouses, restaurants and stalls, and the local cooking leans on yak meat, mushrooms and the wild vegetables and herbs that grow in the wet forest, with a strong presence of Sichuan food as well. It is a comfortable overnight stop on the road from Nyingchi to Basum Tso or onwards towards Lhasa.
Practical notes
Foreign visitors to Tibet travel on a permit arranged through a licensed agency and with a guide, and Nyingchi is included in the standard permit as long as it is listed on the itinerary. The drive from Lhasa takes about five to six hours through the Mila pass; the alternative is to fly into Nyingchi Mainling airport, which is an hour from Lulang. Rain is frequent and the road can be affected by landslides in the monsoon, so build some slack into the schedule. Bring waterproof clothing and warm layers; even in summer the meadow evenings are cold.
