Gyantse sits in a wide agricultural valley in the Shigatse region, on the trade route between Lhasa and the Indian border, and the town is dominated by a rock outcrop in the middle of it. On top of that rock stands the dzong - the fort or district headquarters - the seat of local government and defence for centuries. The structure was largely destroyed in fighting, and what remains is a partial reconstruction of the walls, watchtowers and a few halls, but the position still explains the town: whoever held the rock controlled the valley and the road.
The climb
A paved path and flights of steps climb from the edge of the old town to the summit, past the remains of the outer walls and through the repaired gateways. The ascent takes thirty to forty minutes at altitude and is steep at the top. From the summit the whole valley is visible - the town below, the Pelkor Chode monastery with its great Kumbum stupa, the river, and the fields extending to the hills. It is the best single viewpoint in Gyantse and worth the effort for the layout of the valley alone.
The history
Gyantse was the scene of a siege in 1904, during the British expedition to Tibet, when the garrison held the dzong for a period before it fell and was largely destroyed. The events of that year are still remembered locally, and the site carries a memorial to the defenders. Visitors should treat the site accordingly: it is a place of national memory as well as a viewpoint, and the memorial areas call for quiet and respect.
Practical notes
Gyantse is on the main road between Lhasa and Shigatse, a full day's drive from Lhasa and usually visited as an overnight stop. Foreign visitors need a Tibet Travel Permit plus an additional permit for travel outside Lhasa, arranged through a licensed agency. The dzong charges a modest admission and closes in the afternoon; go in the morning. Combine the climb with the Pelkor Chode monastery and its Kumbum, which stand at the foot of the rock and are the other reason to stop here. Walking shoes are essential and the wind at the summit is strong.
