Ganden was established by Tsongkhapa in 1409 and is regarded as the mother monastery of the Gelug tradition. Its abbot held the title Ganden Tripa, the senior ranking position in the school. The monastery stands at about 4,300 meters on the ridge of Mount Wangkur, looking down into a valley of barley fields.
The buildings
The complex was substantially destroyed in the twentieth century and has been rebuilt since the 1980s. The main assembly hall and the college buildings have been restored, along with the tombs of the Ganden Tripas, which are gilded stupas inside the main halls. The setting is the more memorable feature: the buildings are strung along a ridge and the sight of them against the sky is striking from the valley below.
The kora
The pilgrimage circuit at Ganden is one of the best in Tibet. It climbs from the monastery up onto the ridge and follows a path past rock carvings, prayer flag platforms and small shrines, with a view of the monastery below and the valley far beneath. The full circuit takes two to three hours at altitude and involves real climbing. Wear shoes with grip; the descent is loose and steep in places.
Practical notes
Ganden is roughly a two-hour drive east of Lhasa, which makes it a full-day trip and generally rules out combining it with anything else. Go early to have time for both the halls and the kora. The altitude here is higher than Lhasa, so walk slowly and expect the climb to take longer than you think. Bring water, sun protection and a windproof layer. The monastery is quieter than Drepung or Sera, which is part of its appeal.
