Drigung Til stands on a mountainside in the Drigung valley north-east of Lhasa, and it is the mother monastery of the Drigung Kagyu lineage, founded in the twelfth century and for centuries one of the most powerful religious houses in Tibet. Its history has been violent as well as illustrious: it was sacked and rebuilt several times, and the present complex is largely a reconstruction. What gives the site its character is not age but position - the buildings are stacked up a steep slope in terraces, so the monastery reads as a settlement climbing a mountain rather than a complex laid out on level ground.
The complex
The main assembly hall and the principal temples sit on the lower terraces, with the residence of the lineage head and the monks' quarters rising above them; steps and paths connect the levels, and the higher you climb the better the view back down the valley. The monastery holds an important collection of reliquaries, stupas and protector chapels, and the protector temple in particular is one of the sites pilgrims come to see. On the surrounding hillside are retreat huts and meditation caves, some still in use.
The hillside above
Above the monastery is one of the best-known sky burial sites in Tibet, which pilgrims and locals visit as a sacred place. Visitors should be clear about the etiquette: this is a religious rite and a place of mourning, not an attraction. It is generally expected that foreigners do not go up to watch, and photographing anything to do with the practice is seriously offensive. If you are unsure about where you may and may not walk, ask your guide rather than following other visitors.
Practical notes
Drigung Til is around two to three hours from Lhasa by road, in Maizhokunggar county. Foreign visitors need a Tibet Travel Permit and an additional permit for travel outside Lhasa, both arranged through a licensed agency, and the monastery is visited as a stop on an approved itinerary. The drive is on mountain roads and takes longer than the distance suggests. Dress conservatively, remove hats inside halls, walk clockwise around religious structures and ask before photographing monks. Altitude is above 4,000 metres.
