7-Day Shanxi Timber Masterpieces: the Yingxian Pagoda and the Two Tang Halls

Morning or midday - arrival
Datong sits in a basin at about 1,040 metres, with the Great Wall running along the ridges to the north and the coal country of Shanxi to the south. It was the capital of the Northern Wei dynasty between 398 and 494, and that century is the reason the city matters: the caves at Yungang, ten kilometres west, were cut while Datong was the capital, and the monasteries inside the walls were rebuilt under the Liao and the Jin. Your guide meets you at the airport or the station and drives you into the city.

Shanhua Temple
Shanhua is the quieter of the two great monasteries and the better place to start. Its main hall, the Daxiongbao Hall, is a Liao building of the eleventh century: seven bays wide, single eave, and remarkable for the way the interior has been left open - the bracket sets and the ceiling are the decoration, and there is very little of the painted fuss that later dynasties added. The Thirty-Three Heaven Hall beside it is Jin, and the sculptural group inside is among the finest surviving Jin work anywhere. The courtyard is a working temple yard, and in the afternoon the light comes in low across the stone.

Lunch
Shanxi is noodle country and Datong is the northern end of it. Your guide orders knife-cut noodles in lamb broth, a plate of the local yellow cake made from millet flour, and something green, because the northern Shanxi diet is short on vegetables and the kitchens know it. A mild table is arranged alongside for anyone who wants one.

Afternoon - Huayan Temple
Huayan is the larger and more formal of the two, and its Thin Scripture Hall is the one that architects come for: a Liao hall of 1038, five bays, with a coffered ceiling and, around the walls, the wooden scripture cabinets that give the hall its name. The hall also holds a set of Liao painted sculptures. The monastery is laid out on an east-west axis rather than the usual north-south one, which is a Khitan habit and a small, physical reminder of who was ruling here in the tenth century.

Evening - the city wall
The Ming wall of Datong was rebuilt between 2008 and 2016 on the original footings, and walking a stretch of it at dusk is the cheapest and clearest way to understand the shape of the old city. Dinner afterwards inside the walls; the guide will pick somewhere within walking distance of the hotel.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Inside or beside the walled city, Datong.

Morning - Yungang
Yungang is a kilometre of soft sandstone cliff on the north bank of the Shi Li River, and between about 460 and 494 the Northern Wei court cut into it: 45 principal caves, some 252 niches and around 51,000 carved figures. The scale of the five Tanyao caves at the western end is the thing nobody expects - the colossal Buddha in Cave 20 is 13.7 metres high and stands, because the rock in front of it collapsed, in the open air. This is Buddhist sculpture at the moment when it is still looking west: the drapery is Gandharan, the faces on some figures are unmistakably Central Asian, and the Hellenistic and Indian elements have not yet been absorbed into a Chinese manner.

How we run the visit
Your guide takes the caves west to east, which is the chronological order and the reverse of the crowd. Caves 16 to 20 first, while the light is on the stone and the group is fresh; then the paired caves 9 and 10 with their wooden-fronted facades; then the dense, heavily carved middle section. The site museum near the entrance is worth twenty minutes for the architectural fragments recovered from the cliff face. Allow three to three and a half hours in total, and note that photography is permitted in the open but flash is not.

Lunch
Near the site, then back into the city. Your guide orders a Datong mixed grill of lamb and offal, a bowl of mutton soup with hand-pulled noodles, and the local buckwheat noodles.

Afternoon - the Datong Museum
The new municipal museum on the west bank of the Yu River is one of the better city museums in China and it makes sense on the same day as the caves, because much of what it holds came off that cliff: architectural fragments, Buddha heads, and the painted and gilded woodwork that the dry climate preserved. There is also a strong Northern Wei section on the finds from the tomb of Sima Jinlong, a Northern Wei prince whose burial furniture came out of the same workshops that served the court, and the museum explains, in English labels, the sequence of the caves. Admission is free with a booked slot; your guide handles it.

Evening
Dinner in the city. If the group has the energy, the Drum Tower quarter is worth an hour after dark.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Datong.

Morning - the drive south
The road to Yingxian crosses the Sanggan River plain, which is flat, alkaline, windy and full of poplars planted in lines. It is not a scenic drive and the guide will not pretend otherwise; it takes about an hour and a half.

The Wooden Pagoda
The Sakyamuni Pagoda of Fogong Temple was raised in 1056 under the Liao, and it is the oldest and tallest surviving timber pagoda in the world: 67.31 metres, five storeys visible from outside, with four more structural storeys hidden inside, and some fifty-four different bracket sets doing the joinery. No nails were used. It has been hit by earthquakes recorded in 1305, 1553 and 1976, by shelling in 1948, and by a well-meant but damaging repair in the 1930s that removed the original bracing in the middle storeys - which is why the upper structure now leans and why visitors are no longer allowed above the first floor. You go in, look up into the five-storey void with its 11-metre Buddha on the ground floor, and walk the encircling veranda. That is the visit, and it is worth the drive: there is no other building like it standing anywhere.

Lunch
In Yingxian. Local specialities are the buckwheat noodles and a lamb stew cooked with Shanxi aged vinegar. Your guide orders both.

Afternoon - Yong'an Temple
Back in the county town, Yong'an Temple is a Yuan foundation rebuilt in the Ming. Its Hall of the Buddhist Doctrines is the thing: a single-eave hall with a Yuan date and a complete set of Ming murals and painted sculpture, including a group of fierce guardian figures that are far better preserved than anything of the kind you will see in a provincial museum. The site is quiet - half a dozen visitors on a normal afternoon - and the caretaker will usually unlock the hall and turn on the lights.

Evening
Return to Datong, about ninety minutes. Dinner in the city.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Datong.

Morning - the drive up
The road climbs out of the Datong basin and over into Xinzhou, and the country changes as it does: loess ridges, terraced maize, then the first larch and spruce as the altitude starts to bite. You come into Wutai over a pass; below you is the bowl of Taihuai at about 1,700 metres, with white dagobas and tiled roofs among the trees and the bare rounded summits of the five terraces above. Wutai is the earthly seat of Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom, and it has been a place of continuous worship since the Northern Wei - Tibetan and Chinese Buddhism sharing the same valley, which is unusual and visible everywhere you look.

Lunch
On the road, in a town below the pass. Simple Shanxi road food: noodles, a stir-fry, and tea.

Afternoon - first temples
The entrance fee for the scenic area is paid and included; the individual temples inside it charge their own small admissions, which are paid on site and are not included. We start with the two that set the place up: Xiantong Temple, founded in the Later Han and the oldest monastery on the mountain, whose Hall of the Thousand Bodhisattvas and bronze hall are the core of it; and Tayuan Temple, whose white Nepalese-style dagoba of 1301 - some 50 metres - is the silhouette on every photograph of Wutai. Two and a half hours, at an unhurried pace, and you will hear bells and chanting at some point in the afternoon.

Evening
Vegetarian dinner is the local habit and most of the restaurants in Taihuai are vegetarian; the cooking is better than it sounds, and the guide will order accordingly. Early night - the altitude and the cool air make most people sleep well and wake early.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Taihuai, Wutai Mountain.

Morning - Foguang Temple
Foguang sits on a terrace outside the valley, and its East Hall was raised in 857. Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin reached it in June 1937 and dated it by an inscription on a beam, which made it the oldest timber building then known in China and destroyed the comfortable assumption that no Tang building had survived. The hall is seven bays wide, single eave, and what strikes you is the roof: an enormous, low, sweeping hip that overhangs by nearly four metres on brackets of a scale you will not see anywhere later. Inside is a platform of some thirty Tang painted clay figures, and on the gable wall a fragment of Tang mural. The hall is unlocked by the caretaker and you are allowed inside, without flash. An hour and a half here, minimum.

Nanchan Temple
Half an hour further on, in a village, stands a much smaller building that is older. Nanchan's main hall carries a beam inscription of 782 - seventy-five years before Foguang - and it is three bays, single eave, unpretentious, with seventeen Tang clay figures on its altar. It is the oldest dated timber building in China. The two of them together, on the same morning, are the reason anyone interested in buildings comes to Shanxi at all.

Lunch
A village restaurant near Nanchan, or back in Taihuai. Simple, and vegetarian by default.

Afternoon - the terraces above Taihuai
Back in the valley, the afternoon climbs. Pusading, on the spur north of the town, is the Tibetan monastery of the mountain - a hundred and eight steps up to a yellow-walled complex that the Qing emperors used when they came here, and the best viewpoint over the roofs of Taihuai. Below it, Wuye Temple is the busiest shrine on the mountain, and the one where local pilgrims actually come to ask for things; your guide will explain what is being asked for and why. If knees or time argue against the stair, we stay on the valley floor and do the Shuxiang Temple instead, whose hall holds a Manjushri riding a lion that is nearly ten metres of painted clay.

Evening
Dinner in Taihuai. If the group is interested, an early-morning chanting session the following day can usually be arranged through the hotel; ask the guide the night before.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Taihuai, Wutai Mountain.

Morning - the drive down
The road back down to the Taiyuan basin takes three and a half hours with a stop, and it drops nearly a thousand metres. By the time you are on the plain it is warm, hazy and busy - a different Shanxi from the one you left.

Lunch
On the outskirts of Taiyuan. The city is famous for tounao, a breakfast soup of mutton, yam and millet wine that is worth trying if the kitchen still has it; otherwise noodles, which in Taiyuan means the hand-pulled kind with a Shanxi vinegar dressing.

Afternoon - Jinci
Jinci is twenty-five kilometres south-west of the city on the slope of Xuanweng Mountain, and it is not a temple so much as a compound that grew around a spring for two thousand years. The core is the Hall of the Holy Mother, a Northern Song building of about 1023 with a double-eave hip roof and a dragon carved in wood around the porch columns - the earliest surviving example of its kind. Beside it stands the Fish Pond and Flying Beam, a cruciform bridge of the Song that is the only one of its shape still standing. The complex also holds a Jin dynasty Hall of the Sacred Mother's attendants with forty-three painted clay figures inside, some of them among the best Song sculpture anywhere. Add the Nanlao Spring, which has run without interruption for something like three thousand years, and the 3,000-year-old cypress that leans over the courtyard. Two and a half hours, and do not rush the sculpture hall.

Evening
Into Taiyuan. Dinner in the city; the guide will aim for somewhere near the hotel if the day has been long. If the group still has appetite for walking, the Fen River park front is lit after dark and is twenty minutes from most hotels.

Meals
Lunch, Dinner

Accommodation
Taiyuan.

Morning
Breakfast at the hotel. If your departure is in the afternoon, the guide will fill the morning with whatever is still open to you: Jinci if you have not been, the Shanxi Museum if you have a taste for more bronzes, or simply the Fen River park and a proper last bowl of noodles. Nothing is scheduled unless you ask for it.

Shopping, if you want it
The honest answer on souvenirs: Shanxi aged vinegar keeps well and travels well, and the six-year and ten-year bottles from the old vinegar works in Qingxu are the ones to buy. Pingyao beef is vacuum-packed and travels. The lacquerware of Pingyao is genuine hand work and heavy. The guide will take you to a shop with fixed prices rather than a commission shop, and will say which is which.

Transfer
Your private vehicle takes you to Taiyuan Wusu International Airport, about forty-five minutes from the centre, or to Taiyuan South station for the high-speed line - which is the better option if you are going on to Beijing, Xi'an or Shanghai, at two and a half hours to Beijing. The guide walks you in as far as the entry check.

Meals
Breakfast

Accommodation
None - onward travel.