Longhua Temple stands in the south of Shanghai, in Xuhui district, and is generally described as the largest and oldest Buddhist monastery in the city. Its foundation is traditionally dated to the third century, during the Three Kingdoms period, and it has been rebuilt and restored many times since - which is normal for a Chinese temple, and part of what makes the surviving structures interesting.
The pagoda
The seven-storey Longhua Pagoda stands just outside the temple gates and is the oldest building in Shanghai. The current structure dates to the tenth century, with brick core and timber outer galleries, and it is a good example of the transition between the solid pagodas of the Tang and the walkable timber pagodas of later dynasties. It is not open for climbing, but it is best seen from the temple courtyard in the late afternoon light.
The temple
Inside, the temple follows the standard layout: a hall of the heavenly kings, a great hall with a seated Buddha, a hall of the three sages and a library of sutras. The scale is generous and the courtyards are large. Look for the drum and bell towers flanking the first courtyard, the carved wooden screens, and the vegetarian restaurant beside the temple, which serves a full menu of meat-free dishes modelled on Shanghai home cooking.
The temple fair
Longhua is famous for its temple fair, held around the third lunar month, which for centuries brought traders, performers and pilgrims to the district. A modern version still takes place each spring with stalls, snacks and performances, and it is one of the busiest and most enjoyable traditional festivals in Shanghai.
Practical information
The temple opens daily from early morning to late afternoon with a small admission fee, and it is served by Metro Line 11 and Line 12 at Longhua station. Modest dress, no loud conversation in the halls, and no photography of people praying. Allow about an hour for the temple, plus lunch at the vegetarian restaurant if you want to eat the way the temple does.
