A private day covering the two things a first visit to Hong Kong should cover: the old Chinese city at street level, and the view from above it. The morning is Central, Man Mo Temple with its coils of hanging incense and Tai Kwun, the restored former Central Police Station compound. The afternoon belongs to the Peak Tram and to the Lugard Road path along the shoulder of Victoria Peak.
What is Man Mo Temple?
An 1840s temple to the gods of literature and war, and one of the oldest in the city. Its most striking feature is the coils of incense hanging from the ceiling, burned slowly and bought by the coil. The temple is still in active use, which is why the visit is short and quiet.
What is Tai Kwun?
The former Central Police Station compound: courthouses, barracks and prison, restored and open to the public. The site holds three declared monuments on one block of old Central and is free to enter. It is the clearest surviving picture of how the colonial city was policed and administered.
Why take the Peak Tram rather than a taxi?
Because it has been climbing out of Central since 1888 and the gradient is the point. The funicular rises close to 400 metres at an angle steep enough that the floor is stepped. It is a piece of working history rather than a transfer, and it is why the queues are what they are.
What is the Lugard Road lookout?
A level path along the shoulder of Victoria Peak, about twenty minutes from the terminus. It gives the harbour, Kowloon and the outlying islands from roughly 540 metres without the paid observation deck. The path is flat, which surprises people who expected a climb.
How much of the day is spent walking?
Four to six kilometres, with one real climb done by the tram. Central is walkable in itself and the Lugard Road path is level; the steep part of the day is the funicular, which you sit down for. Comfortable shoes are still worth wearing.
Is the Peak Tram queue avoidable?
Partly, by timing. The wait peaks in the late afternoon when everyone goes up for the sunset. We take the tram earlier, come down by bus or by tram depending on the queue, and treat the sunset from the harbour side instead.
Where does the day end?
With dinner in Lan Kwai Fong, or with the harbour if you prefer. Lan Kwai Fong is the bar and restaurant district directly above Central, an easy walk from the last stop. The alternative is a Star Ferry crossing, which has run since 1888 and takes nine minutes.
Is this a good day for a first-time visitor?
It is the day we would build first. It pairs the Chinese and colonial city at street level with the view from above it, which is the two-sided thing Hong Kong actually is. Travellers with a second day should spend it on Lantau or in the geopark.
