Shibati takes its name from a flight of eighteen stone steps, and it occupies the slope in the older part of Chongqing between the upper city and the river. It was for generations a working-class district of lane houses, workshops and stairways, crowded onto the hillside, and after a period of decay it has been restored and partly rebuilt as a pedestrian quarter.
The quarter
The arrangement follows the terrain: narrow lanes that climb in steps, houses built one above another so that the roof of one is the terrace of the next, and passages that turn and disappear between the buildings. The restoration has brought back the stone paving, the timber shopfronts and the tiled roofs, and the quarter now holds teahouses, snack counters, small workshops, craft shops and guesthouses. Some of it is genuinely old and some of it is new work in the traditional manner, and it is worth looking closely to tell the difference; the deeper lanes are the more authentic.
The markets
The surrounding streets hold working markets rather than visitor markets, and they are the reason for coming if you want to understand Chongqing's cooking. Vegetable stalls carry the greens, bamboo shoots, beans and roots that the region eats, along with stacks of fresh chillies in several varieties, dried chillies, Sichuan peppercorn, pickled mustard greens and fermented bean pastes. There are tofu shops, noodle makers, butchers, and counters selling the cured and smoked meats that go into the hotpot. A bowl of xiaomian - the city's breakfast noodles, dressed with chilli oil, sesame paste and pickled vegetables - costs very little at a market stall and is the best introduction to how the city eats.
What to eat nearby
Around Shibati you will find the full range of Chongqing street food: noodles, hotpot on a small scale, grilled skewers, cold dishes of noodles and vegetables dressed in chilli oil, glutinous rice cakes and sweet soups. Because the district sits between the old town and the river, it is also close to some of the city's more established restaurants, and it is an easy place to spend a long afternoon eating and walking.
Practical notes
Shibati is within walking distance of the central districts and is served by metro; because of the slopes, expect a lot of stairs. The lanes are busiest in the evening, when the lights come on and the snack counters fill up, and relatively quiet in the morning. Prices in the restored quarter are higher than in the surrounding streets, so walk a few minutes outward for cheaper and more local food. Note that the terrain and the crowds make this a difficult area for wheelchairs and pushchairs.
