Huangjueping is a district in the southwest of Chongqing built around the old campus of the Sichuan Fine Arts Institute, one of the most important art schools in China. In 2007 the streets around the campus were covered in graffiti on a large scale, on the walls of residential blocks and factories, and the area has been associated with street art and independent studios ever since.
The graffiti street
The main street runs for over a kilometre, and the graffiti is not confined to walls: entire building facades are painted, several storeys high, in bright colours and large cartoon or abstract forms. It is municipal-scale public art rather than the corner tagging you find in European cities, and it works best photographed in the morning when the light hits the facades on the eastern side of the street. Students and alumni continue to add pieces, so it changes over time.
The art base
Behind the street, in former factory and warehouse buildings, are the studios and exhibition spaces that make up the 501 art base, along with a tank depot turned gallery space. This is where the serious work happens: painting, sculpture, printmaking and installation, with regular shows and open studios. It is not a polished commercial district - some units are empty, some are workshops - but that is part of its character, and the artists are generally happy to talk if you are respectful about it.
The teahouse
The old teahouse in the middle of the district, in a converted transport building, is famous in its own right and is worth an hour: low stools, enamel cups, mahjong, and a clientele that has been coming for decades. Artists and neighbours share the tables, and it is one of the very few places in China where the two worlds sit in the same room.
Practical information
Huangjueping is in the Jiulongpo district, about 40 minutes by taxi from the centre, or by metro to Arts College station on Line 2. The street and the art base are free to walk; individual exhibitions may charge. Weekdays are quiet and galleries are more likely to be open; check locally before going for a specific show. There are noodle shops and small restaurants on the main street, which makes lunch easy.
