Chongqing hotpot began as a working-class meal on the docks of the Yangtze, where boatmen and laborers cooked cheap cuts and offal in a heavily spiced broth that could make the least expensive parts of an animal taste good. It spread from the riverfront to the whole city and became the region's signature dish, and the beef tallow base is still the marker of an authentic Chongqing pot.
The pot and the grids
The classic vessel is a large round cauldron divided by a metal grid into nine sections, or sometimes a shallow pot with a nine-grid insert. The grid is not decoration. The center boils hardest and is used for quick-cooking items like tripe and thin beef. The corner sections simmer more gently and are used for potato, lotus root and tofu that need longer. The grid also lets diners keep track of their own food and stops everything from being stirred into one mass.
The broth
The base is beef tallow, dried chili, Sichuan peppercorn, fermented broad bean paste, ginger, garlic and spices, melted together into a thick red liquid. It is extremely spicy and numbing. Many restaurants offer a split pot with a mild white half, which is the practical choice for visitors. The oil stays on the surface and carries the heat.
The dip
The traditional dip is sesame oil with minced garlic, sometimes with cilantro and a little vinegar. The oil coats the food and cools it slightly; it is not there to add flavor but to temper the heat. Adding soy sauce or sesame paste is common but not classic.
What to order
Beef tripe is the essential item and comes in several cuts. Also standard are thin-sliced beef and lamb, beef aorta, duck intestine, luncheon meat, fish balls, quail eggs, potato slices, lotus root, tofu skin and leafy greens. Order a mix and cook in stages. Drink soy milk or a local beer rather than water, which spreads the chili oil around your mouth.
