Chongqing is a city of ridges, and one of the most accessible of them is Tieshanping, in the north of the city on the Jiangbei side, where a wooded hill rises above the Yangtze and the surrounding districts. It has been managed as a forest park for decades, with roads, paths and facilities, and it functions the way a city park does for a much larger city: somewhere to walk in the cool of the morning, drink tea, eat in one of the restaurants and look down at the traffic on the river.
The park
The ridge is covered in pine, camphor, bamboo and mixed broadleaf woodland, with paved and unpaved trails running along the top and down the flanks, viewpoints facing the river, and pavilions and teahouses at intervals. Because it sits above the valley, the temperature is a few degrees lower than in the centre and there is usually a breeze, which is why it is so busy in July and August. In spring there are flowering trees, in autumn colour, and through the winter the ridge is mostly green and quiet. There are also monasteries and temples in the hills nearby, and small villages along the roads.
The river below
The western side of the ridge drops towards the Yangtze, where the river runs through a series of bends below the city and the shipping traffic is constant: barges, sand dredgers, container boats and cruise ships, all moving slowly against the current. The contrast between the wooded ridge and the working river beneath it is the best thing about the park, and it is a reminder that Chongqing's whole existence is tied to the water. On clear days the view extends across the river to the city and up to the hills beyond.
Practical notes
Tieshanping is in the north of the city, reachable by road and by bus from the Jiangbei side, and it is free and open all day; the teahouses and restaurants open from mid-morning. It is a large area and the best approach is to pick one section and walk it rather than trying to cover the whole ridge. Because it is a local escape, weekends and holidays are crowded and the roads up can be slow; a weekday morning is far more pleasant. Public transport back down the hill tails off in the evening, so plan your return or book a taxi.
